Fortuna Cooks

From Market Street to Townsend Street and the Embarcadero to Division Street, SoMa has become the city’s newest cultural and multimedia center. The process started when alternative clubs began opening in the old warehouse in the area nearly a decade ago. A wave of entrepreneurs followed, seeking to start new businesses in what was once an extremely low-rent area compared to the neighboring Financial District. Today, gentrification and high rents hold sway, spurred by a building boom that started with the Moscone Convention Center and continued with the Center for the Arts at Yerba Buena Gardens, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Four Seasons Hotel, and the Metreon. Other institutions, businesses, and museums move into the area on an ongoing basis. A substantial portion of the city’s nightlife takes place in warehouse spaces throughout the district.

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When the cable car started operating in 1873, this hill became the city’s exclusive residential area. The “Big Four” and the “Comstock Bonanza kings” built their mansions here, but they were all destroyed by the earthquake and fire in 1906. The only two surviving buildings were the Flood Mansion, which serves today as the Pacific Union Club, and the Fairmont Hotel, which was under construction when the earthquake struck. Today the burned-out sites of former mansions hold the city’s luxury hotels – the Mark Hopkins, the Stanford Court, the Fairmont, and the Huntington – as well as spectacular Grace Cathedral, which stands on the Crocker mansion site. Nob Hill is worth a visit if only to stroll around Huntington Park, attend a Sunday service at the cathedral, or ooh and ahh your way around the Fairmont’s spectacular lobby.

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To really get to know San Francisco, break out of the downtown and Fisherman’s Wharf areas to explore the ethnically and culturally diverse neighborhoods. Walk the streets, browse the shops, grab a bite at a local restaurant – you’ll find that San Francisco’s beauty and charm are around every corner, not just at the popular tourist destinations.

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6 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon olives or cooking oil

2 10½-ounce cans condensed beef broth

2 cups water

2 springs cilantro or parsley

1 bay leaf

2 slices bread

1 tablespoon butter or margarine, softened

2 well-beaten egg yolks

With flat side of knife, mash garlic cloves. In large saucepan cook garlic in hot oil till tender. Stir in beef broth, water, cilantro or parsley, and bay leaf. Bring to boiling; reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 40 minutes.

Meanwhile spread bread with softened butter; cut in quarters. Place bread quarters on baking sheet. Bake in 325° oven for 20 minutes or till crisp and lightly browned.

Strain hot soup; discard garlic, cilantro and bay leaf.

Gradually add 1 cup of the hot soup to beaten yolks, stirring constantly. Return to saucepan; serve at once. Garnish each serving with 2 toast quarters. Makes 4 servings.

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2 pounds honeycomb tripe

1 1½-pound veal knuckle

6 cups water

3 medium onions, chopped (1½ cups)

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon coriander seed

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 15-ounce can hominy

Pequin chilies or crushed red pepper

Lime wedges

Cut tripe into 1-inch pieces. Place in a Dutch oven with veal knuckle, water, onions, garlic, salt, coriander, oregano, the 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 3 hours till tripe has a clear, jellylike appearance and veal is very tender.

Remove veal knuckle from pot. When cool enough to handle, discard bones, chop meat and return to soup. Add undrained hominy; cover and simmer 20 minutes longer. Serve with pequin chilies or crushed red pepper to taste. Garnish with lime wedges. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

About this recipe: Widely popular in Mexico, this hearty soup is enjoyed at lunch, supper, and even breakfast. When eaten with plenty of extra hot pepper, it is reputed to cure hangovers. Canned menudo is available in many large supermarkets and Mexican stores.

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2 pounds honeycomb tripe

1 1½-pound veal knuckle

6 cups water

3 medium onions, chopped (1½ cups)

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon coriander seed

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 15-ounce can hominy

Pequin chilies or crushed red pepper

Lime wedges

Cut tripe into 1-inch pieces. Place in a Dutch oven with veal knuckle, water, onions, garlic, salt, coriander, oregano, the 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 3 hours till tripe has a clear, jellylike appearance and veal is very tender.

Remove veal knuckle from pot. When cool enough to handle, discard bones, chop meat and return to soup. Add undrained hominy; cover and simmer 20 minutes longer. Serve with pequin chilies or crushed red pepper to taste. Garnish with lime wedges. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

About this recipe: Widely popular in Mexico, this hearty soup is enjoyed at lunch, supper, and even breakfast. When eaten with plenty of extra hot pepper, it is reputed to cure hangovers. Canned menudo is available in many large supermarkets and Mexican stores.

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1 medium onion, chopped (1/2 cup)

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons cooking oil

4 cups water

2 10 1/2-ounce cans condensed beef broth

1 6-ounce can tomato paste

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed (2 cups)

2 medium carrots, sliced (1 cup)

1 beaten egg

1/4 cup snipped cilantro or parsley

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 pound ground beef

1/4 cup long grain rice

In large saucepan cook onion and garlic in hot oil till onion is tender but not brown. Stir in water, broth, and tomato paste. Bring to boiling; add potatoes and carrots. Simmer for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile combine egg, cilantro or parsley, salt, oregano, and pepper. Add ground beef and uncooked rice; mix well. Form mixture into 1-inch meatballs. Add, s few at a time, to the simmering soup. Return soup to boiling; reduce heat and simmer about 30 minutes or till meatballs and vegetables are done. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

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1/4 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon cooking oil

4 cups chicken broth

1/4 cup long grain rice

1/4 cup tomato puree

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash pepper

1 cup frozen peas

In saucepan and onion in hot oil till tender but not brown. Stir in chicken broth, rice, tomato puree, slat, and pepper. Bring to boiling. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 25 minutes.  Stir in frozen peas; simmer, covered, 5 minutes longer. Makes 4 servings.

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1 pound chorizo or Itallian sausage

1 medium tomato

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

Remove sausage casings. In skillet cook sausage till done, stirring to break up. Drain off fat. Peel, seed, and chop the tomato. Stir into choriza along with parmesan cheese; heat through. Makes about 2 3/4 cups.

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1 medium tomato

1 4-ounce can green chili peppers

1 cup chopped cooked chicken

1 teaspoon vinegar

Peel and chop tomato. Rinse chili peppers; discard seeds. Chop chili peppers. Stir together chicken, chopped tomato, chopped peppers, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt. Chill mixture till ready to use. Makes about 1 3/4 cups.

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